
I never went hungry for the first few days in Kathmandu. Not that I did later either but I was certainly well fed in the beginning. They have people who work full time in the house, cooking, cleaning, serving food and drinks, etc. I definitely felt uncomfortable having restaurant level service at my fingertips all hours of the day. I didn’t get used to it quickly.
Now, if you’ve eaten Indian cuisine in the U.S., you’ll have had the same 4-5 dishes on repeat always served with naan (a type of flatbread). This food is not very much like the actual Indian and Nepali food you get in the country. They hardly ever have naan, more often they eat paratha, which is a more buttery, flaky flatbread, sometimes filled with potato and spices. You use this paratha to scoop up the saucy dishes like dal (thick lentil soup), aloo (potatoes), curd (plain yogurt), etc. Most people eat with their hands on a large flat metal plate. It was a bit disturbing to me to watch people eating soupy foods and rice with their fingers, to be honest. The foods are also usually pretty spicy, but I think they were putting less spice since Aditya and I can’t handle super spicy food. And let me emphasize even the “non-spicy” version of what was made was still relatively spicy. But I enjoyed it.
Fruit is also a common side dish before or after you eat. Mango seems to be the most common right now plus I’m sure it’s in season. Another fruit I found to be quite good is called chiku, not to be confused with Aditya’s brothers nickname, Chiku. It’s like a pear but light brown in color, with a natural cinnamon-ish flavor. The sweet flavors they incorporate into the meals go very nicely with the heavy spiced dishes, cleansing the palette. A common dessert was rice pudding, made with fresh cows milk, super creamy and delicious, served room temperature.
Breakfast was also different then the sweet pancakes, waffles, and cereal we get used to back home. They seem to be always savory. Corn toast and mushroom toast was one notable favorite, cheesy garlicy goodness atop crunchy toasted bread. Also, if you can get your hands on the coconut chutney, I’d highly recommend. Don’t plan to be vegan I this country, almost everything is made with dairy and ghee (butter). But egg-free and vegetarian dishes are very common.
The heavy nature of all the food plus the addition of spicy chili in almost everything, had me concerned for the future of my stomach and bowels. Lucky for me, I guess I have a strong stomach. And sorry in advance for the dirty details but I feel fair warning is in order, I finally did get diarrhea about two weeks in. Not sure what I got it from ingesting, but I think that’s a pretty good track record for a “bland-food” eatin’ California girl like me. Also, keep in mind that a clean and comfortable bathroom may not always be nearby when you need it most. So plan accordingly, keep tissues or wipes on you in case of emergency!