We traveled via Thai Airways to Kathmandu, no more business class, but the economy was fine. I was for sure the only white person on the plane by now and I got a few stares. I think we were both a little nervous to meet his family. Getting into Nepal I purchased a 90 day visa on arrival for $100 USD. Customs was very easy but then we had to stand in line for metal detection screening as they want to know if people are bringing in large amounts of gold into the country. I had a fair amount of personal jewelry with me but it didn’t pick up as enough I suppose. I got through the line first (women and mens line was separate) and Aditya was far behind. I grabbed our massive bags from the carousel and as I turn around I’m face to face with Aditya brother and mother. They both hugged me and we were happy to finally meet. We shuffled the bags and Aditya finally came through. His mother looked so happy to finally have her son back.
Then we went outside and walked to the car. It started raining immediately and I knew I was finally there. His brother Anshuman (who goes by Chiku as a nickname) loaded my bags for me and we waited for the other two. Finally we all are in the car and we get moving, brother driving. The traffic situation was very similar to that of Bangkok, haphazard, tons of motorbikes, and narrow lanes. We first went to the house which the family has in Kathmandu to drop our belongings and meet the uncles and grandma. His grandmother has been very, very anxious to see Aditya, who is the technical favorite as it’s her eldest sons, eldest/first son. We walked in the front door to everyone waiting, Aditya touched her feet (a customary greeting to elders and respected individuals) and I followed and did the same. It’s very awkward for me but I had to do specifically for her to show respect. I then met his aunt’s and uncles, hugged the aunts, ‘namaste’ with prayer hands to uncles. I probably should/could have touched their feet but everyone kept assuring me that I didn’t “have” to, which made things more weird for me so I gave up trying and just defaulted to namaste. We sat around the living room chatting for a while, some asked me a few light questions. But the focus was obviously on Aditya. I sat there trying not to be weird but my mind was racing. Also, everyone mostly spoke in Hindi or Nepali with some English sprinkled in so I couldn’t follow much of the conversations. His grandmother doesn’t speak a lick of English so she kept trying to talk to me but I couldn’t understand, I felt really bad. It was an overwhelming situation which lasted for 2-3 days.
I went to at least 3 different aunts houses and probably met 30 people, uncles, cousin’s etc. They all served me juices and fresh fruits, and all the food I could eat. All of which, may I add, are super delicious, savory, and spicy, with multiple courses always. Two Aunts also gave me gifts, one they call a suit, a dress with pants, and the other a scarf. I was grateful in taking the gifts and saying thank you. I probably enjoyed the food the most, contrary to socializing, the city, and the bathrooms being at the root of my anxiety.
This sounds similar to my own first visit to Nepal in 1983 with my new Nepali wife. Writing a book about it now, chapters published weekly on Wednesday, Preface was last week, next one is called “First Impressions” next Wednesday.
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